Jacob Appelbaum ([info]ioerror) wrote,
@ 2005-04-20 23:40:00
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A Yezidi village in northern Iraq (Kurdistan) - Part 1
When I was in northern Iraq and near Zakho I was able to fulfill my major yearning to meet some Yezidi. I wrote about this previously in my desires for initially wanting to come to Iraq. We as it just so happens were able to do this on my very first day here. We drove through the village, visited their main cemetery and their event hall that is a shrine to their faith. One of their priests even explained much of their faith to me.

This is going to be broken into two parts, this first entry will mostly show photos of the people in their village with a small amount of commentary. The second part will be photos of the holy sites in their village.

Most of the Muslims that I have met here know about the Yezidi. They're tolerated even though their belief system is very far from the norm.

This village is somewhere south of Dahuk by 45 minutes in the direction of Erbil on this map:



I first read about these people around 8 years ago when I was reading a great deal of theology books. Many people of the world consider them to be people who worship the devil. This includes our translator for this trip.
They consider themselves to be descended from Adam. Yes, that Adam.



This is the view of the village as we're creeping up in our vehicle. The road isn't bad here. In fact this is one of the few places where the air wasn't choking to death awful. In case you missed this, that haze in the distance is pollution. You can't even photograph a hill here without being close to it or everything looks like it's behind a wall of gray or white haze.



This man is working in his garden.



Four children staring at me.



This is a very typical mud hut that people live in here.



A view of a very typical street in this village. The road is paved, cars and donkeys share the road with people.



It's very typical for people to sit or stand outside of the gate to their or other peoples home.



This woman stands stoically here perhaps wondering why I am taking her photo.



These two women sit outside of the gate. The one on the left is perhaps more secular than the one on the right. Her ankles and face are showing. This is a sign that she's less conservative by many Muslims standards.



This man is a fashionably dressed man of the Yedizis faith.



This woman and what could very likely be her daughter sit outside of a gate.



Left to his own devices he's sitting in the shade on the side of a building alone.



The backside of a house.



I said hello to these people before I took their photo. They're very friendly.



Notice the color of her shirt, it's light blue. Yedizis don't wear dark blue apparently.



This woman is standing in her doorway and waiting for me to pass.



This Yedizis man is simply standing and staring.



It's common to see cute donkeys like this one just hanging out on a sidewalk in this village.



These men are manual laborers.



This man is working with the men from the previous photo.



Not all children have shoes on, perhaps they're without shoes entirely.



This little boy was staring off into space until he heard our car, he looked over and seemed puzzled.



Most of the people seemed to stand around without any purpose here. Just relaxing on the sidewalk.



These men are working on clearing the street.



Note here that the man on the right is wearing light blue.



I am not entirely sure why this man is wearing a full face wrap but I suspect it's because of the dust in the air from his labor.



A wall separating the street from the yard of this house.



A woman and her donkey walk down the street.



These children are apathetic to my presence.



I am almost entirely unnoticed here.



This little boy doesn't know what to make of the strange white people in a white car. It's perhaps the first time he's ever seen someone like me. My hair looks wacky right now, so much so that I didn't take a photo of myself.



Seconds after the little boy runs away to his home.



A house with a yellow door and kerosene containers strangely stored by hanging from the roof.



A group of people surround an object in the middle of the road.



This little child was overjoyed to have his photo taken, he chased the vehicle down the road smiling.



Again, the group of people surrounding something, what is it?



These children are happily running after the car.



This man says hello while we stop.



This woman seems slightly shocked at the sight of our car.


A series of three images of a woman holding her child.










This child walks down the center of the road, he only looked one way, right at us.



This little boy isn't sure what to make of us.



This older man is pleased looking.



This boy is standing up to greet us.



Many of the village men are standing and sitting around at this hut. I am unsure what it's purpose is.



These women are shocked by my camera.



These women stand solemnly looking at my camera.



All the Yedizis ducks are in a row.



This little girl is making a sort of "gggrrrrr" noise at me.



This little boy is spending his time watching the cows.



These women are carrying home bales of grass.



The same woman from the above photo from a side angle.



Children returning from school.



These girls are excited to see us.



This girl seems to be eating a flower.



This little girl seems shy.



This little girl doesn't seem shy but she seems like it's out of place



These children are fresh off of the school bus. You'll notice that the bus says 'mashallah' which I think roughly translated is 'god be with you.' I forget off the top of my head.



This little boy stopped in the middle of the road to look at me.



This boy chased after the car for the length of half the village (about a five minute drive at slower than 10kph speeds).



That same boy was joined by many others. They asked me my name and where I was from in broken English.



This boy liked his stick, he ran faster than the other boys.



Finally another boy runs up to ask my name.



This boy attempts to shake my hand but can't run fast enough.



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(62 comments) - (Post a new comment)


[info]mooflyfoof
2005-04-20 07:52 pm UTC (link)
these are amazing. thank you so much for sharing them!!

(Reply to this) (Thread)


[info]detaer
2005-04-20 08:02 pm UTC (link)
Thanks for sending me the link!

Those pictures are amazing. It is nice to see smiling faces of happy people out there. The media has for so long made people of Iraq look unhappy, desperate and violent. Thanks for showing me the other side of things.

(Reply to this) (Parent)


[info]kore
2005-04-20 07:54 pm UTC (link)
wonderful :)

(Reply to this)


[info]mr_chip
2005-04-20 07:59 pm UTC (link)
Wow. That's a great photopost. I'm loking forward to part 2.

(Reply to this)


[info]pashcendres
2005-04-20 08:22 pm UTC (link)
Those are great. I received your postcard yesterday and wanted to tell you thanks and happy belated birthday. Hope we can catch up when you return.

(Reply to this)


[info]girlvinyl
2005-04-20 08:43 pm UTC (link)
That girl's shirt says "internet"
Also, I love donkeys. I think they're super cute. The fur on their noses is always super soft.

(Reply to this)

Couple of Questions
[info]mgoa
2005-04-20 09:45 pm UTC (link)
1) Do the Yezidi know there is a "war"? Do they know what "america/american" is? Do they understand Iraq as a "country" and if so, do they understand themsleves a part of it.

2) Do you have the exeperience of exposing people when you take photos? I have never been able to take photos of people on my travels. I think this has been simply because it made me feel exposed myself..I guess. And, the more foreign the people, the more the feelings of exposing self and other.

3) Are you seeing what you thought you would see?

Mgoa

(Reply to this) (Thread)

Re: Couple of Questions
[info]00goddess
2005-04-22 12:32 am UTC (link)
Do the Yezidi know there is a "war"? Do they know what "america/american" is?

Are you seriously asking this question?

(Reply to this) (Parent)(Thread)

Re: Couple of Questions - [info]ioerror, 2005-04-23 05:30 pm UTC
Re: Couple of Questions - [info]00goddess, 2005-04-24 10:13 pm UTC
Re: Couple of Questions - [info]mgoa, 2005-04-25 08:00 am UTC
Re: Couple of Questions - [info]00goddess, 2005-04-25 06:06 pm UTC
Re: Couple of Questions - [info]ioerror, 2005-04-25 06:30 pm UTC
Re: Couple of Questions - [info]00goddess, 2005-04-25 06:47 pm UTC
Re: Couple of Questions - [info]ioerror, 2005-04-25 06:52 pm UTC
Re: Couple of Questions - [info]mgoa, 2005-04-25 08:10 pm UTC
a slice of life
[info]desierto
2005-04-20 11:18 pm UTC (link)
It's so nice to see these images, these beautiful people. Thank you, thank you.

(Reply to this)


[info]enoughrope
2005-04-21 12:52 am UTC (link)
Absolutely staggering.

(Reply to this)


[info]magpiesf
2005-04-21 01:31 am UTC (link)
wow, just wow. i am so grateful you are posting these in such quantity - and cant wait to see the second installment of yezidi photos...

(Reply to this)


[info]g_na
2005-04-21 02:18 am UTC (link)
Great photos, thanks for posting them.

Most of the people seemed to stand around without any purpose here. Just relaxing on the sidewalk.

I've noticed while travelling through less prosperous countries that people seem to spend a lot of their time just watching the world go by. I had always assumed it was at least partially a function of not having enough money or resources for entertainment, but I suppose culture is a factor as well. Dunno if you've had any additional insights regarding this.

(Reply to this) (Thread)


[info]clango
2005-04-21 09:41 pm UTC (link)
I have a friend spending her time in Ecuador at the moment. There is an old man who lives across the street from her hostel. In the morning, he walks out onto the stoop, sits down, and starts smoking. In the evening, he goes inside. This pattern repeats daily.

(Reply to this) (Parent)


[info]random_tangent
2005-04-21 04:48 am UTC (link)
I wish I had a 'www.internet.zoom' sweatshirt.

This is really good stuff.

(Reply to this)


(Anonymous)
2005-04-21 06:17 am UTC (link)
Do Yezidis know hoe to get out of a circle

(Reply to this)

Nothing to do with this particular post, but...
[info]hastybreaching
2005-04-21 08:19 am UTC (link)
Oddly enough you have my exact job when I was 17ish: travelling around installing VSAT terminals. Only you're in Iraq, which makes it about a billion times more awesome. I'm hooked. Definitely be keeping an eye on this LJ.

(Reply to this)


(Anonymous)
2005-04-21 02:47 pm UTC (link)
Turned out that they a humans :)

(Reply to this)


[info]knowyermonkey
2005-04-21 02:55 pm UTC (link)
tyler recommended checking out your journal
i love that you have so many pictures of children
thanks for posting them

(Reply to this)


[info]mersipan
2005-04-21 03:01 pm UTC (link)
What great photos! Thank you for putting them up. It's hard to find another side of Iraq than that in the media, and so your photos are very valuable. I don't know if I would have the courage to go to Iraq right now, and I admire you for that.

Do you mind if I add you to my friends' list?

(Reply to this)


[info]o_lucky_man
2005-04-21 03:47 pm UTC (link)
Amazing! Looking forward to part 2!

(Reply to this)

With a bow ...
[info]taiyosan
2005-04-21 04:15 pm UTC (link)
Tyler sent me here: it was/is a great journey: thank you!

(Reply to this)


[info]drugaddict
2005-04-21 06:29 pm UTC (link)
added u

saw you posted on boing boing!

(Reply to this)

Kids
(Anonymous)
2005-04-21 08:23 pm UTC (link)
Kids are beautiful, no matter where you are. They just have a certain innocence about them that gets corrupted once they turn into adults. You really captured their free and un-poisoned spirits in your phtoos. Thanks so much for sharing!

So, just for curiosity's sake: What where all the people surrounding?

And another question: To you try to make contact before taking people's picture? Do you ask for permission? What do you tell them you're taking them for? ..... just wondering. I would feel weird if a "foreign" looking guy in a car would pull up and started shooting pictures of me and my kids....

(Reply to this) (Thread)

Re: Kids
[info]slownewsday
2005-04-23 06:46 pm UTC (link)
The people were surrounding a cloth seller - which is why the pink cloth is held aloft in the air. I was the fourth passenger in the car that day and I noticed a lot of peddlers in the area, the cloth seller one of them. I was attracted by the pink, too, thought it might be a flag of some sort, turned out to be a man displaying his wares.

(Reply to this) (Parent)


(Anonymous)
2005-04-21 09:19 pm UTC (link)
These children are fresh off of the school bus. You'll notice that the bus says 'mashallah' which I think roughly translated is 'god be with you.' I forget off the top of my head.

"Ma Sha' Allah", an expression used in Arabic. It literrally translates to "what God wills," the expression is used when praising something to glorify God.

(Reply to this) (Thread)


[info]ioerror
2005-04-23 05:35 pm UTC (link)
Thanks for the correction!

(Reply to this) (Parent)


(Anonymous)
2005-04-22 03:06 am UTC (link)
The women are probably ooh and aahing the fabrics in their hands. Note the olive green and pink fabric. And since some of the men are there too they're obviously paying for the purchases (or trying so to stop their wives from purchasing).

It's common to see peddlers carrying off their wares, mostly fabrics and carpets for the home, and they hardly carry personal items probably because these people are reluctant to spend money on themselves. The sellers are probably Pakistanis who peddles their wares throughout Asia and Middle East.

(Reply to this) (Thread)


[info]ioerror
2005-04-23 05:30 pm UTC (link)
Thanks!

(Reply to this) (Parent)


[info]lzygenius
2005-04-22 09:02 am UTC (link)
There is this odd human-ness quality that you don't see in pictures of Americans.

travelled here via http://www.boingboing.net/2005/04/20/more_from_jake_a_gee.html

(Reply to this)


[info]jk_fabiani
2005-04-23 05:54 pm UTC (link)
That fast one could be my own son. Thank you for the cool images.

(Reply to this)

Lots of stuff
[info]bellereve
2005-04-23 09:37 pm UTC (link)
It's always amazing to see people in their natural state. Especially peoples who seem so far away ... like people you periodically see on the news, burning flags and shouting anti-American slogans. And yet ... they're really just everyday beings just like you and me. Perhaps that might just sound obvious, but I haven't really had exposure like this before.

Anyway, I was wondering if school in Iraq, particularly in this Yezidi village you've visited, is co-ed or not. I was also wondering at what age girls stop going to school. What do they do afterward? It seems slightly agriculturally oriented ... with all the women carrying bales of hay.

Everytime I see pictures like this, I feel like selling all my possessions and moving to a foreign country, somewhere out in the countryside. No electricity poles, no telephones, better yet, no cellphones! Of course, there's famine, drought and disease but ... that's the price you pay for simplicity.

(Reply to this)


(62 comments) - (Post a new comment)

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